Firing Stones in Sterling Silver Metal Clay

While continuing on my experimenting with sterling silver metal clay, I wanted to push the envelope some more and see what will happen if I made a hollow ring with channel set stones.

Here is my ring before firing. I made it a size 10 in hopes that it will shrink to a 7. I want to find out if the stones will take the heat. The white stones are 2mm CZs and the red center stone is a 5mm Corundum.
I made the walls thicker because the shrinkage for the sterling silver metal clay is so high. I needed the walls to hold the stones and not shrink off of them during firing. Sterling silver clay must be fired in two stages. In the first stage it is heated to 1000˚ F and held at that temperature for 30 minutes. I didn’t want to shock the stones so I used a slow heating ramp of    500 ˚F an hour. So, it took 2 hours to heat the kiln up to 1000˚ F. After allowing it to soak at 1000˚ F for 30 minutes,  I then cracked the kiln’s door and allowed it to cool. When the kiln cooled to 400˚F I removed the ring using tongs while wearing leather gloves.   In the second burnout phase, I buried the ring in activated coconut carbon with a layer of at least ½” above and below it in a stainless steel container.  I again heated the kiln up at a slow rate so as not to shock the stones. This time I ramped it up faster at 700˚F an hour until it reached 1500˚F.  I chose to ramp it hotter faster because the stainless steel container and activated carbon take longer to heat, and I wanted to know if I could go faster. When I was a bench jeweler, I re-tipped prongs on CZs and Corundum using a torch heating them up fast, so why wouldn’t these stones take a faster heating?  Since the ring has a large mass I held the temperature of 1500˚F for one hour. Afterwards,  I cracked the door allowing the kiln to cool faster. Once it was down to 400˚ F I removed the stainless steel container and let it air cool for a few minutes and then opened it. I removed the ring with copper tongs and placed it on a heat-proof surface. Once it was cool I picked it up to inspect it. (I get impatient sometimes.)
The stones survived and it came out exactly as a size 7! But take a look at the inside of the ring! As it shrank the activated carbon indented the surface! Next time I will wrap the ring in stainless steel screen!  The small round hole was put there on purpose to allow the air trapped in the ring to escape when heated. Otherwise the trapped air when heated expands and will blow a hole in the hollow area!  I had to put the hole in that area because there were pockets of trapped air in the lower part of the ring. In the top part of the ring the expanding air escaped around the stones. And as it shrank the band split in one area.  I had made the inside shank thin, only 4 cards thick and then sanded it in the dry clay stage. In my next experiment I will make it thicker and see if it cracks again.
Check out how far the metal shrunk away from the stones. This is a  photo of the unfired dry clay. Note how much the red stone is covered.	This is a photo after firing. Note how much of the red stone is uncovered after firing. Also look at the channel set stones how much more they are exposed.
Overall, I am happy with the ring. I will re-fire it filling in the crack on the inside of the ring with more clay. The texture in the inside band can be sanded smooth.

Faux Cloisonne Enamel Using Ice Resin

In the previous report I showed creative ways to use Ice Resin.This report shows how to step by step create faux cloisonné enamel made from Ice Resin. Supplies and tools needed: Pre-made bezel cup Silver bezel wire (Its width should be the same height as the outside bezel’s height. Ice Resin Color pencils Paper Various colors of eye shadow or mica. Toothpicks Popsicle sticks Mixing cups Paper towels
1.   Plan ahead by making color cards. Mix a color with resin, place it on an index card, and write down what was used.
2.   It is best to draw a design on paper. Draw it full size to what you are making.  This drawing will be used as a template later.
3.   Choose the colors for your design.  Fill in the areas using color pencils that match the eye shadow or mica you have.
4.   Place the bezel wire on its side over the template. Using your fingers bend the wire into the same shape as each line in the drawing and cut them to length.
5.   Place the formed bezel wire into the bezel cup.
6.   Mix a small amount of resin in a mixing cup without adding any colorant.
7.   Glue the bezel wire in place. Place equal parts epoxy into mixing cup.  Stir with a popsicle stick for the amount of time listed in the product’s instructions. Partially fill all sections with the resin. This glues the bezel wire in place and seals the bottom so that when adding color it doesn’t cross contaminate the other cells.  Allow resin to set for 6 hours.
8.   Mix the first color and epoxy together and fill the sections with the appropriate color.  Place equal parts epoxy into mixing cup. Add a small amount of colorant to the mixture until the resin is the color you want. Stir with a popsicle stick for the amount of time listed in the product’s instructions. Using a popsicle stick scoop up the mixed resin and drip it into the section. Allow the resin to run into each corner. Use a toothpick to spread the resin throughout the section and into any corners. Allow resin to set for 24 hours.  Allowing the first color to set completely helps keep the other color from mixing with it.
9.   If the first color spilled into sections where it’s not wanted cut it out using a small bur on a rotary tool or flex shaft. You only need to cut it down low enough so that the next color can be placed over it.
Mix the next color with epoxy and place into the sections. Here I am using black eye shadow. Drip epoxy into the center areas keeping air from being trapped. Use a toothpick to move the poured resin into the corners.To avoid the color leaking into other sections, fill only until they come up just under the top of the bezel wire. Allow resin to set for at least 6 hours.
10.   Continue mixing colors and filling sections until all sections are filled just below the top of the bezel sections. 11.   Mix the top coat of resin keeping it clear with no color. This is poured over the whole peace until all the low areas are filled. The resin will dome towards the center.  Use a toothpick to pull the clear resin towards all edges.  Allow to setup for 24 hours.

Eye-opening Ideas for Using Ice Resin

Ice Resin is a clear two part epoxy that forms a solid crystal clear piece that won’t yellow over time. In this report I’d like to inspire you with creative ways of using this medium. Resin offers jewelry artists many creative ways of uses from embedding items in it, using it over pictures or paper for a special glossy look, and using it as faux enameling.   Your imagination makes this medium unlimited!
In the 1970s resin was mixed with chipped stone and used as a stone inlay. I take that idea a little further crushing the chipped stone with my dapping set and then mixing it with the two-part epoxy. Note: wear a mask and wash your hands and tools afterwards.  Some stones can be toxic when crushed.   Pour the mixture into a bezel or an inlay piece and then allow it to set. Note: use a toothpick to spread the resin to the edges of the bezel. This gives a solid stone look.
For this piece placed red and black glass frit making a design. I then completely filled the bezel with resin.
An easy way to save a momentum is to place it encased in resin. Here I took a cutting from a Christmas card, covered it with Modge Podge and allowed it to dry. What a great way to save mementos from the holidays, birthday cards, or even baby shower cards. Make them into charms for a one-of-a-kind gift!
I placed it into the bezel and poured the mixture of Ice Resin over it.
This is a beautiful way to showcase a graphic print or photograph.
In my next report I will show how to make faux cloisonné enameling using Ice Resin.